This article is about the correct time When To Prune Cherry Trees. The pruning of fruit trees has many objectives, the most important of which are the care, activation, growth, development and protection against diseases. The most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the harvest. Positive results can be achieved if you cut timely with the right high-quality garden tools.
When it is necessary to trim the crown of fruit trees
On the one hand, it is believed that this is the best time to prune the tree. It is performed after the complete disintegration of the sheet cover and at the end of the movement of the sap. This time is called a rest period. On the other hand, it is the time of lack of movement of the sap when it is difficult to heal the place of the cut.
It begins with the occurrence of the first set of wood sap (the so-called vegetative period) and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This unsatisfactory result can be corrected at the beginning of the cold season. It is also possible that when pruning at low temperatures, there is no possibility of freezing the shoots, which can lead to damage and impairment of the fertility function. Then is a good time to graft and prune the fruit trees.
Fruit tree pruning tools
These are different pruning shears. Not only the seasonal weather is decisive for cutting, but also the quality of the tool. The requirements for a tool are simple: it should be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. In addition to the main requirement of blade sharpness, the tool should be easy and convenient to use, as cutting a single tree can take a long time. You need to trim more than once.
It is important to pay attention to the effect of the ratchet mechanism, as it depends on how it forces you to press the handle.
The construction of the saw is not suitable for pruning fruit trees as it causes additional damage to the trunk. Tooth gaps are shallow cavities due to the accumulation of sawdust. In addition, the blade has a small gap in which the young shoots stick to the blade, which causes additional work. The blade should have a good sharpness and a narrow end on the blade.
It differs from manual versions in the presence of a longer handle. Another option is the telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the cutting height. This shape is perfect for cutting processes that are high enough for human growth without the use of additional tools in the form of stepladders or ladders.
Additional tools are required for pruning. With the chainsaw, the massive trunks of older trees can be cut down faster.
The technique of forming and pruning fruit trees
With this cutting method you can determine the correct direction of growth of the branches. From a technical point of view, there are three types of pruning.
In addition, it is necessary to avoid sharp cuts in case the left kidney lacks nutrients. As a rule, the tip of the selected kidney is cut off with the cut of a young one-year-old shoot. In this process, the Pruning Lopper is led straight down the branch. Important: The cutting angle should be as close as possible to 45 degrees, otherwise the kidney will not be properly trimmed.
When such pruning is carried out, the aim is to remove one or more branches. The reason for such a violation is the penetration of light from the wrong direction of the branches into the crown. If the long residual process dries out in the future, it will cut off the crown formation or interfere with it.
In the latter case, the shoots absorb some of the distributed nutrients and are more promising than the branches in terms of yield. If the shoots are young and so thick that they can be cut by secateurs, a hacksaw can be used.
Note that there are a number of nuances that you should not forget when cutting branches from rings. Do not leave a shoot for too long when cutting the bark. Right, remember to trim the outer edge of the ring to form an inflow of bark at the junction of shoot and trunk.
This type of pruning is designed to change the direction of growth of a shoot. It is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of its viable functions. Full pruning of incompetent branches whose main function is to remove the side branches and replace the main branches.
Types of pruning fruit trees
This action aims to design a future crown that yields the necessary density, shape and shape. The most successful time for such pruning is between February and the beginning of March. This leads from the end of March to a phase of active juice movement, so that the fruit tree is as fertile as possible. Late pruning can lead to delays in the development of the plant and a lack of yield.
This is suitable for the development of trees that require minimal adjustments. In good conditions, the illumination of the crown and the density of the young shoots must be maintained. This is important for the formation of skeletal guides and branches for the entire growth and development of the plant and serves as a reliable framework that is resistant to stress and can withstand heavy harvests.
During this time, fresh slices should be put on so as not to release any wood juice. The most successful period is February, April, August and September.
The main objective of the restoration is the active fertilization. The anti-aging view is intended for older trees. The cutting time is from early spring to late autumn.
For mature trees to reap the best harvest, they must be rejuvenated from time to time by awakening the buds. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the viability of withering trees. Seasonal pruning must take into account some nuances in order not to damage the fruit on the tree.
Pruning fruit trees in spring
In dry weather, temperatures of 0 degrees are ideal. Only after the first kidney swelling is a pruning necessary. The pruning should start with the older trees.
They are the most important fruit composition. This is due to the different stages of renal awakening. You can also prune young seedlings. Apple trees grow well where they need to be planted.
It is better to cut pears and cherries in May. This is because these trees are more resistant to frost and temperature drops, so they do not suffer as much when pruned later than others. As far as the shoots are concerned, pruning should at least begin as soon as something is promising.
Dry damage caused by frost or insects intersect with other shoots and interfere with the normal function of the crown. For large fruit branches, cutting is the only option for rings. Once in place, the cut should be covered with a special solution of damp clay so that it heals quickly and does not damage the whole tree.
Summer pruning of trees
The pruning of the fruit trees usually takes place in summer. During the period of active flowering, it is easier to detect defects. In addition to removing the incapable shoots, a number of measures can be taken during this time. The main purpose of this process is to make a slight adjustment to frost-related branch damage, so that these are not detected until early spring.
Young shoots can be cut in the garden with scissors or secateurs. With tweezers or clothespins, the process cuts off only the upper part of the branch. Pasynkovka adaptation is another option that can be carried out when buds are given to the young shoots and it is enough to cancel them.
It is an option that affects cliff tightening when a clip occurs. The reception is similar to conventional pruning, with the only difference that the pruning is done without the intervention of garden tools.
Pruning fruit trees in autumn
It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for extreme cold. Autumn is the most favourable time for pruning fruit trees. The main objective of the autumn pruning is the rehabilitation and removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such measures, wood pests and microorganisms are not able to penetrate the healthy parts of the tree.
Among other things, the autumn pruning of the tree enables effective conditions for ventilation and illumination of the crown. Distributing wood sap to the healthy branches will increase the yield for next year. In winter, pruning fruit trees is not recommended. Note that when cold sets in, large sections should be treated with a special protective composition, as this impairs rapid healing and preparation at low temperatures.
Fruit tree pruning schemes
Without knowing the principles and methods of pruning fruit trees, it is difficult to imagine how to start with these methods for beginners in gardening. This approximate plan for pruning comes to the aid of the layman in this matter.
Particular attention should be paid to the distance between the trunk and the cut branches, which directs the trunk towards the younger shoots. Also pay attention to the apical shoots and remove the thin fork twigs that form the crow’s feet. To get rid of the crossing branches, it is necessary to cut the shoots directly into the ground.
The formation of the crown occurs by removing the thickening that has grown at the top of the branches and shoots of the dormant buds. As described above, this method is ideal for annual pruning of newly developed trees, but can also be formed from young seedlings or older trees, although the numbers differ somewhat.
Pruning young seedlings
From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground and the fruits begin, the main task is to form the skeleton of the tree, with skeletal branches following the growth of fresh shoots that are laid down for future fruit formation. To ensure this, it is necessary at this point to ensure that the growth of the crown in all directions. The pruning of annual shoots and branches to thicken the crown must be carried out.
Thanks to such manipulations of the crown, young seedlings become powerful and fertile within a few years. After a successful phase, pruning should be considered in late autumn. If the leaf has fallen or been damaged, the excess shoots are removed. Young seedlings should be pruned after rapid growth. Fast-growing shoots should be cut by 50% and slowed down by 25%.
This enables not only the preparation of the tree for winter, but also a high-quality air exchange and illumination of the crown.
Pruning Adult Fruit Trees
Forming the crown of a new plant is relatively easy, and the main thing is to follow the rules. For older fruit trees there are certain steps to follow.
This is because the entire harvest of such trees is usually located at the top of the crown and the fruits are too small to appear. The painstaking process of reviving the old fruit trees takes several years and consists of the following activities: In the first year, the crown is pruned on several levels on the south side of the tree.
This work is done to move the main branch to the side of the branch. For the next harvest season, the top form of the previous procedure is mandatory. It absorbs nutrients that are vital for the living parts of the tree.
In the following years the rest of the crown is pruned and the wolf is cleaned. The removal process can be performed at any time of the year on any ring and does not affect the quality of the process.
This is a favorable time to prune old trees because of the winter season. This is due to the fact that during this time the fresh cut does not rot and pests do not infest it.
If you want to achieve the fastest possible growth of the fruit tree during pruning, it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruit buds. There are certain nuances to consider when making a high-quality pruning on a fruit tree, especially when doing it for the first time. For rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), a periodicity of one to two years is essential. Do not forget that the possibility of deep pruning can be traumatic for the plant and can result in a significant part of the plant dying.
When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of the branches. Do not touch frozen branches of fruit trees in winter. It is recommended to wait until spring to determine that the dead body is complete before it is removed.
That is, if the number of main and secondary branches is uniform, this leads to supersaturated branches and a thin crown. It is important to remember that it is the horizontal branches that distinguish the maximum fruit level. So if you cut off branches from the trunk, do not leave any adjacent or adjacent branches behind. When pruning fruit trees, the yield should be regulated.
Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration of the fruit characteristics. Young trees must be pruned to form a crown. Large parts of the diameter should be treated with a special composition, especially for garden varieties, as this speeds up the healing of the plant. The use of an oil or varnish layer on the sections is not recommended.
The laborious work involved in pruning a fruit tree in the garden can sometimes pay off with a proper fruit harvest. Some apple growers bring home large and tasty apples every year, while gardeners and others, for unknown reasons, reduce the yield of the trees, break off branches or the tree dies. The most important thing is to stick to accepted recommendations, as this is a simple process that in fact requires contractors who do not comply with the technology to be careful.
To avoid such problems, you must learn how to cultivate an apple orchard, but do not forget to prune the branches. Our article not only contains the most important recommendations on this topic, the attached video also shows how the apple cut is done in autumn. If you know how to cut an apple tree in any season, it is better to do so before pruning. You can be sure that you will get a shapely crown.
Depending on the age of the tree, pruning serves for different purposes:
By pruning an old apple tree, it can be saved in most cases and young trees can grow and bear fruit better thanks to a similar process.
When to cut apple trees – in spring, summer or autumn?
The pruning of an apple tree in spring is necessary to remove branches that freeze in winter and to form a crown to increase productivity. Young trees should be pruned every year in autumn and spring. Late autumn and autumn leaves as well as old, spoiled, broken or rotten branches should be pruned back to prepare the tree for winter. Spring pruning should begin as soon as the juice buds appear.
In rare cases, apple trees can be pruned in summer to provide good light and access to the fruit. It is also possible to prune apple trees after an autumn frost. Winter apples are easier to carry than apples from the rest, but they are harder to carry in warmer southern regions, where the bark of the tree is brittle and frost damaged.
Try to finish work on the apple tree before the first frost. It is better not to bark at the interface as the frozen wound heals for a long time.
Cutting an apple tree falls into three types: weak, medium and strong. Low yields are achieved in young apple trees, where new branches grow every year and are cut by about a quarter. In spring, fresh shoots grow from the truncated branches and form a beautiful crown.
A medium harvest can be used on 5-7 year old apple trees and older trees, with the aim of increasing the number of productive branches that form the crown. A strong harvest is necessary for thinner branches, as the apples ripen faster in the sun when the thin branches are cut in half. To strengthen the branches, cut off about a third of the length.
Cutting apple trees in the fall is of three types: weak, medium and strong
Another way of pruning apple trees is to remove dried branches. It is important not to make the mistake of cutting branches from the trunk of the tree, as dried branches can fall from the tree in hollow form and lead to the death of the apple tree.
Cut off the twig at the point where the first kidney appears. In this case, it is advisable to treat the interface and not paint the garden. Thin files, small tooth files and blunt parts on the trunk should lie on either side of the branch you are cutting.
After this treatment, it rains during the treatment of the garden varnish, with which the interface is cut off.
A separate type of pruning apple trees – removal of dried branches
To prune young apple trees with thin branches, carry pruning shears and a strong branch saw. Tools should be clean, sharp and sharpened with a razor. A blunt hair clipper or hacksaw will ruffle the bark, but the wound will heal. In paint processing, a suitable oil-based dry oil or another type of paint burns the bark faster than acid. Gardeners treat wounds caused by cutting branches with a disinfectant solution of lime and copper sulphate in a ratio of 10: 1.
Cut apple trees before you start planting in the first year to restore balance and reduce the spread of the root system in the aboveground part of the tree, which needs more water and nutrients than the roots can provide. In the next 3-5 years, it is better not to prune young apple trees, but to remove broken or dried branches. NOTE: If older dried branches require immediate processing, cut the younger branches back and wait at least a day to cover the cut with color (VAR). The shoots become shorter as the tree grows.
The plants should be pruned in autumn and spring. The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown that allows enough light to pass through. In order for fruit trees and shrubs to reap rich harvests, they should not be watered or fed before pruning. You should pay particular attention to blackberries.
This in turn leads to more active growth of the shrub and higher yields. Pests will attack shrubs in smaller numbers.
The operation can also be performed during harvest. During the dormant phase, the leaves sprout from the tree. It can also be done during a harvest.
This Period Begins At The End Of Summer
The young shrub will have about 10 large branches. The berries will appear, but not as ripe as the young shoots. The older branches are recognizable by their color, as they are darker. With the older branches, the harvests are not necessarily as abundant and the berries are not always as juicy.
As the shrub grows older, remove the shoots from 1 to 3. The remaining shoots should be shortened to the base of the first kidney. What is left should be deleted. New branches can be added to the roots by cutting the shrub from the shrubs.
This period begins at the end of summer.
The fruits appear on the shoots of the second year. After harvesting, the shoots should be cut back to the lowest 10% of the branches and left for the new season. The fruits will remain on the branches next year. Due to the nature of the diseased and dried branches that need to be removed, the pruning is hygienic.
If the young branches themselves are weak, they must be restrained. If the shrub does not show visible growth, you must leave strong shoots that have been shortened in the lateral process. In regions with a colder climate, suspenders can be carried out in spring, when the shelter is removed.
Gooseberries and currants are cut:
During the dormant period, there are no leaves or buds at all on the bushes, except perhaps on some that are still in full bloom.
In summer you can make additional cuts. This is necessary for the formation of new growth in order to generate more returns. Shrubs give up their power not only with the formation, but also with the new green ripeness of the berries. In summer, young branches should be pruned so that fewer leaves remain. If the bushes yield berries to older branches, you must leave 5 ripe branches that are not longer than 25 cm.
Blueberries (blueberries) are trimmed:
Winter and spring are periods of active growth. The fruits occur in the last year on the side shoots (i.e. below).
Adult shrubs form leaves from adult branches and medium new growth. Young shrubs can be pruned but should not be touched.
After pruning, mulch the shrub and apply a sulphate fertiliser. If the shrub is thick, cut back 1 / 3 of the old branches and roots. For hygienic pruning of the young shoots cut back to 2 buds that bore fruit last year.
In most cases, pruning takes place in spring to rejuvenate the tree and stimulate the growth of new shoots that will bear fruit in the future. With this technique you can regulate the growth and fruit of garden trees and shrubs. We explain the pruning technique, methods and rules for tree or shrub pruning.
They are more like surgery than anything else. The formation of the crown is carried out to create a strong skeleton for the trees to accelerate their fruits and at the same time to place existing ones in the garden space. This may seem complicated and requires certain skills. Otherwise, the garden may be damaged. The crown can be anything from shaping to cutting.
In this respect, they should be scaled back from the outset. Berry bushes have buds that swell and leaves that appear when the snow melts. Fruit crops should be pruned regardless of temperature when the buds open in March and the first half of April.
All you need to know about early flowering plants is that the buds, flowers and shoots from the previous growing season are laid down and pruned before flowering. If it concerns apple or pear trees, the cut is for the young seed and drupe fruit.
The pruning of raspberries, dogwood and willow supports and reinforces the decorative colour of their shoots. The pruning of shrubs stimulates an enlargement of their leaves, which makes them decorative. The pruning can end in winter or early spring. For late flowering plants, it occurs at the beginning of the growing season.